Giving Thanks, Thanksgiving Recipes and History, from Pilgrims to Pumpkin Pie
Plimouth Plantation, 2005
Islesboro’s own food historian, Sandra Oliver, tells us that “Thanksgiving in nineteenth-century New England, coastwise and inland, was widely observed and hopelessly romanticized.” It seems that bygone New Englanders thought of Thanksgiving as their one great holiday and over the years this national holiday has not only taken on a romanticized Pilgrim mythology, but has become one laden and overflowing with traditional American foods and family tradition.
In her award-winning book, Saltwater Foodways, Oliver wrote a chapter about this quintessential American holiday as it was celebrated in 19th century homes. In her new literary offering, Giving Thanks, Thanksgiving Recipes and History, from Pilgrims to Pumpkin Pie, Oliver joins Kathleen Curtin and the Plimouth Plantation, to create an entire book which takes a long look at the holiday’s evolution from the 17th century right through the 20th century. The holiday is much more then Pilgrims, turkeys and Indians. It has a rich and fascinating history that is thoughtfully and thoroughly explored by Curtin and Oliver.
The idea for writing Giving Thanks occurred to Oliver and Curtin (who is Plimouth Plantation’s food historian) during a Plimouth Plantation exhibit, “Thanksgiving memory, myth, and meaning.” Oliver was a consultant on the project. Plimouth Plantation is a living history museum that is considered to be the leading authority on the Thanksgiving holiday. The Plantation explores the culture of the native Wampanoag People and English colonists whose 17th century lifestyle is recreated at the site.
Oliver and Curtin, good friends as well as colleagues, realized that between the two of them they knew a great deal about the 17th century traditions (Curtin’s specialty) and the 19th century traditions (Oliver’s specialty). Why not combine forces, take it a step further and co-write a book that would include recipes and history of the holiday starting with the “event of 1621” to present day observations? Giving Thanks, as Oliver tells it, does not aspire to reach new creative heights in inventive culinary feats, but to reveal the rich heritage of Thanksgiving, and perhaps inspire new family traditions as well.
The result of this collaboration is a scholarly and entertaining look at Thanksgiving’s evolution, including some “pilgrim debunking” and a wonderful collection of tasty heirloom and modern recipes. Oyster Stew, Wampanoag Corn Porridge, Pumpkin Chiffon, Mincemeat Pie and even the infamous Green Bean Casserole, are a few of the 75 classic and exotic holiday recipes found in Giving Thanks. Every recipe tells an American story, from Deluxe Sweet Potato Casserole, with marshmallows of course, to Chinese American Rice Dressing.
Thanksgiving, the premiere food holiday, is celebrated by over 97 percent of Americans, who consider the turkey to be the food centerpiece symbolizing the bounty of the earth. However, according to Oliver, the harvest festival of 1621 probably did not include turkey(!!!). At “the event of 1621” it was the Wampanoag, outnumbering the Colonists, who provided the meat. They arrived with five deer, which were cooked by the women. Giving Thanks features a few venison recipes, but turkey lovers take heart, because Giving Thanks also includes five different ways to prepare roast turkey.
The original feast lasted three days, and along with the meal, included such activities as “exercising arms,” or target practice with guns. The meal most certainly, according to Oliver, included corn, as this would have been a celebration of the settlers’ first decent harvest.
For her contribution to Giving Thanks, Oliver spent a good part of the summer of 2004 writing and testing recipes. She held a “Thanksgiving in July” feast in which she asked friends to prepare potential book recipes, then gather together for a taste testing critique and feast. Plimouth Plantation also tested every one of the recipes included in the book. Later that summer Curtin came to the island and both authors spent many days working on revisions.
Oliver is delighted with the final outcome of Giving Thanks. Along with the history and recipes, the book is beautifully illustrated with original nostalgic artwork and recreation scenes from the archives of Plimouth Plantation. She is thrilled to see her name on the cover, and a little surprised, as she didn’t realize she would be credited as co-author.
Giving Thanks has already been well received. It’s into its second printing, and Newsweek reportedly will feature Giving Thanks as “gift pick of the season” in November.
There have been two book signings thus far, one at Plimouth Plantation, and the other at Islesboro’s Artisan Books and Bindery. The Islesboro event included a lively lecture by Oliver, who cooked up samples of Curried Pumpkin Bisque and a Really Easy Cranberry Pecan Brie Wheel for everyone who attended. Copies of the book can be purchased at the Islesboro bookstore, or from Oliver directly.
Giving Thanks, Thanksgiving Recipes and History, from Pilgrims to Pumpkin Pie is a delightful book, and one that will be referred to again and again as Americans create their own Thanksgiving traditions, having become a little more knowledgeable about this “pilgrimized and turkeyfied” holiday.