VINALHAVEN — In some ways, it was easier in Paris and New York.
Running a restaurant on an island 12 miles out to sea, says John Feingold, executive chef and owner of the newly opened Salt, brings logistical and transportation challenges he never encountered while cooking at world-class restaurants in those cosmopolitan cities.
Still, he loves his new restaurant home on Main Street.
Getting perishable foods to the island quickly is one hurdle, Feingold said. He tries to source most of his food locally, but some ingredients must come through island transport companies or on the ferry.
“Getting it to the island is a challenge,” Feingold said. “So much so that a couple of times a week we actually have to call up a taxi in Rockland to drive around and pick up perishables for us, whether seafood or oysters or meat, and bring it down to the ferry dock and find somebody in line who’s willing to carry it over to us and then we go down to meet it at the boat. That’s a very imperfect supply chain that adds a certain amount of cost and risk and uncertainty into running a business.”
Feingold buys as much as he can from local fishermen and farms, including Turner Farm on North Haven and Spark Plug Farm on Vinalhaven. Local food is often healthier, Feingold said, and it’s unique.
“As a chef, I really believe that the food tastes like the place. What’s grown on Vinalhaven, on North Haven, what comes out of the waters around here, is unique in the world. It’s a result of the history, the soil, the wind, the rain, the weather, the sea, the way that its harvested and grown and it tastes like the Fox Islands,” Feingold said. “That’s a unique taste and flavor that we want to capture and preserve and deliver in as pure a state as possible.”
Feingold, head chef Ryan Flemming and pastry and sous chef Alyson Flemming make almost everything in house, including charcuterie, pastas, some cheeses, and ice cream. Feingold believes the machine they use to make sorbet and gelato is one of only a few of its kind in Maine.
“My chefs and I are trained in classical [French] cooking technique, and we bring that here, but at the same time we are using some of the most advanced cooking techniques that are available,” Feingold said.
When he bought and renovated the building, once the town apothecary, he preserved the historical bones of the dining room and brought the kitchen into the 21st century. Feingold said his cooking is the same blend of old and new.
The restaurant aims to offer high quality cuisine, with professional service and attention and a fine wine list, “But all done at what we believe are very reasonable and affordable prices,” he said. “One of the challenges in doing this here is really dialing it in and getting it right for the audience that we’re hoping to please,” which includes the local islanders and year round residents Feingold hopes will return, even in the off-season. As part of dialing in to that crowd, after the restaurant’s opening, menu prices were lowered.
“Vinalhaven people are probably among the most outspoken, vocal, honest commenters and critics that a restaurateur is ever going to meet and we appreciate that,” Feingold said.
Since opening on Memorial Day, business has been good, Feingold said.
Feingold has been visiting Vinalhaven in the summers for over 15 years. When he decided to leave to pursue his passion and become a chef and restaurateur, he wanted to do so on the island.
While renovating the building, he heard the demand for year round choices. The current plan is to open five nights a week through Columbus Day, and then to scale back to an off-season schedule of one night a week.
Feingold wants Salt to provide locals with dining options, and he is concerned that two local mainstays, The Haven Restaurant and The Harbor Gawker, have recently been put up for sale.
“My business plan has always counted on them being there,” Feingold said. “I want to be part of a merchant community that offers choices.”
This community extends across the thoroughfare to Nebo Lodge on North Haven, with plans to collaborate with the restaurant there so the skiff that takes Vinalhaven residents to eat at Nebo can also bring North Haven residents to Salt.
For more information visit www.saltvh.com